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I already replied, but since everyone is switching to rechargeables, you should know that they are lower voltage than alkaline. Many newer devices have a voltage regulator that will take a higher voltage from the batteries and drop it down a bit. In this way, the device is always operating with a surplus until the batteries are empty. However, there are still plenty of devices that don't do that and need the full 1.5 volts from each alkaline battery -especially devices that take more than one or two cells. A 0.3 volt drop per battery adds up fast.

Do you have a thickness planer like the DeWALT DW735 or DW735X, and do you mount it on your PSS?

Hey there, thanks for the videos. Great work!!! CRCarpentryRemodeling had one of your trailer designs highlighted on IG. I noticed your drawers need a slight lift upward to initiate the pull out. I love that. Hoping to incorporate that design into my van build but can't seem to find this detail in any of your videos I've watched. Are you able to point me in the right direction to a plan or a video? Thank you so much. Take Care

What about contact cement, like for wood veneer or plastic laminate.

PL Premium

Dear Ron, I really love your videos, your work ethic, and your ingenuity, BUT... you've grossly over thought this process and over engineered this jig- if anyone is an authority on overthinking the crap out of stuff, it's gotta be me 😂. There is a way simpler method to doing this with the LR32 with much less chance of error due to inaccuracies of the jig. I believe I made my jig in less than an hour. Got the inspiration from Peter Millard. In this way, there is zero chance for exponential error. Don't mean to imply that your jig isn't accurate, but it can be done in a simpler fashion with a dead on accurate result.

These types of videos are great Ron. How many times do we find ourselves in the situation of asking whether to use this or that. Glue this to that is easy to say but it's so easy to get caught out. Just the other day i made a jig using Mr MDF and PVA. Noting the glue was soaking up and weakening the joints I applied to both surfaces. Only after taking the jig out of the clamps did I notice that the joints with glue on both surfaces, despite being stronger, had not totally squeezed together so the tolerances for my router bushing are a hair off. When I woke up on Saturday I didn't know that; when I went to bed on Saturday I knew that! We can't all go out and try all the options every time. With something like glues where the choice on the market is so vast, it's great to know what works and what doesn't, in real life, not just in theory, and getting that knowledge from a trusted source is a bonus too 👍

This is the best article I have found over the years. The key result for us home guys is the Flame oxidation result. This is to hit the PVC with a torch flame only long enough to frost the surface. At that point the surface is Oxydized and you are bonding to an oxyde, which is much stronger than to the plastic. Using a PVC cleaner and glue before epoxy bonding (or probably Fastcap bonding) is huge, however, I always find those cans are empty when I go look for them, and so the Flame approach, for small projects is more practical for me. I also use it on any plastic that will oxidize with a flame. So for gluing 3D prints. But for people who stock fresh product and have surfaces that are hard to flame, glue would be better.. That said, I have flamed pipes that are still socketed in my trimaran after 30 years. However, if your glue doesn't even bond well to wood.... www.epoxyworks.com/index.php/bonding-pvc-plastic-with-epoxy/

A problem with these kinds of test is the failure mode. Probably not a chisel prying on it for a sled. Easier modes to overlook, are plastic creep where you have a small force over time. These are pretty common in a lot of wood projects. I wouldn't call this like a pro. But I would be influenced by the snapped off easy vs hard results.

The world needs more content like this.

As always, thank you for sharing! I take it you have a mini split or something in that garage?

Does Florida require homeowners to get a permit for replacing windows?

In boatbuilding, I’ve used a nifty product from TotalBoat called “Thixo.” It comes in several varieties. Downside: it’s a big tube, but the mixing tips give you some grace there. Bottom line, I know there are some similar 2-part epoxies in smaller quantities with the mixing tip that would work well with that. If you pre-wet the ply with some neat epoxy to start, and don’t use too much pressure when clamping the parts together, you’ll get a nice bond. Finally, Joe Buskins has an excellent channel where he gets into using vinyl-based bonding systems, which I’m guessing might be even more solid for PVC. Might also think of an HDMW strip with some countersunk screws…

Makes sense the activator wouldn’t achieve as good bond. Without activator the glue has a bit of time to soak into the fine of the wood and bond to the pvc.

I believe that the activator only accelerates the cure time not the strength. I think the 2p-10 had more time to sink into the wood fibers before fully curing and is why it held better.

"I know the 2p10 with activator is going to hold as well". No, you don't. Activator is known to weaken cyanoacrylate. Other RUclipsrs have tested it. One example is hacks by dad "how strong is super glue accelerated with starbond accelerator." Metal to metal jount. He does another video with alcohol and baking soda/water as DIY activators. DIY activators weaken it even more. Basically similarly to what you experienced gluing wood to PVC. It may not be so noticable with wood because the lignan is so weak but even there activated CA might fail before wood if shocked. Cyanoacrylate is brittle and fails when exposed to shock, shear, high temperatures, solvents, moisture (breaks down in 3 days when gluing wounds closed), etc. CA glue Commonly used when you actually want a joint to be unreliable, such as temporary fixturing, or to hold parts while the real adhesive sets. Maybe the activator weakening isn't that big a deal since someone who knows much about adhesives probably would not use CA glue in the first place for a permanent bond when they care about strength and durability.

Try PC-7 epoxy putty

I have used construction adhesive and West Epoxy (G5) BUT to be honest I only trust mechanical fastening with dissimilar materials.

I’ve used PL Premium polyurethane construction adhesive with good results.

You should do a video on how you set-up and calibrated the thin strip guilds

Ah so exactly same but inverted. What if I lay on my back and use a track saw

Just ordered mine 😊

When are you going to have a video with both benches packed up for loading into the trailer?

Buy decent batteries. Energizer has a no leak guarantee and will repair or replace your device.

Good stuff son! 🤟

I work for a construction company in Natchez Mississippi. And I have been converting my tool trailer to your smart wood shop. So every time I replace a section I get to see everyone’s face when we open the trailer. I have now shown everyone your videos so they understand what I’m creating.

Went to the web site, no sales pitch there. Why would one want smart casters over others. What makes them smart etc... You might want to out that up, so people know WHY they want your castes versus other ones.

I use a small triangle file to resharpen the blade, saves me heaps.

Robert Redford is looking great these days!

I take batts out of everything when not in use

I ordered and download the Paulk Smart Kart (PSK) on June 6th and ordered and download the Paulk Smart Kart (PSK2) after ordering R8 Smart Casters from Bob at Bennington Manufacturing on June 14th. Chris sent me an updated plan for the PSK2 on June 15th, is this the latest and greatest revision that you mentioned in your "Get Ready to Roll: R8 Smart Casters Available Now" video? I am looking forward to the build video.

I ordered my Paulk Smart Bench from Repardise on May 12, 2024 and was surprised that it was delivered on May 17th (although I missed the delivery and was delivered on May 20th). I was surprised that the Paulk Smart Bench package was labeled "Made in China" , based on your comment that the bench is made in the same factory as the ulralight plywood, it to is "Made in China". The fit and finish was excellent, the only comment is that the outer layers are very thin and you have to be careful in sanding.

I love this for the flexibility it provides, even if you don't need mobility. It looks like the center of the router bit is about 9.5" from the front of the table. Ron, has this been sufficient for wider panels, or do you do those elsewhere? Has anyone put the router further back and cantilevered out a bit further - maybe just 96 mm more?

Thanks Ron just ordered…looking forward to your final adjustments

i have these casters on the last bench that I built for my shop. i love them. No more tripping over casters that stick out past the table. i have been using them for 3 or 4 months now, Glad to see Bob was able to get his casters out there on a makers channel.

what would it take for them to be self reproducing?

Did you previously say you're selling the Florida fixer before finishing it? Are you still working on it? Where are you going? I'd like to use the new casters, but I've already cut out the shapes for PSK1 and I bought one set of casters for PSK1. I wonder if the pieces I cut out already would allow me to change them to the PSK2? I just cut the rectangle sizes and none of the detailing yet.

Ordered, thanks Ron

My only concern is that my DeWalt DHS790 alone is about 800 pounds!

Ron, have you ever considered selling the patterns?

Great work Ron and Bob! Ordered the R8’s. My only question is, if I order the wood shop package will it come with the PSK2 plans? Thanks Ron!

Got a ton going on right now. I’m in the middle of a bathroom deal at my house and a customer. When I’m done I’m going to do this. Guys The current Smart Kart is great however I’d be lying to say I’ve never tripped over those wheels hangin out. Can’t wait to do this

I built the original PSK to use under a Moravian design. Now I'll build v2 under my first PSB. Happy Sunday!

Ordered!

Great work, Ron. Looking forward to the build video.

Have to replace them in mine at least once a month, because... I'm using it. That prevents my batteries from leaking

You paid $800 for a battery? 😳

Sir, as a long time Live show audio tech, I promise 9V/AA batteries have cost some of us FAR MORE THAN $800.

All the top name alkaline battery brands leak. Often in 2-4 years. Rayovac, Eveready, and Duracell WILL REPAIR OR REPLACE THE DEVICE THAT GOT DAMAGED BY THE LEAK. Don't be ashamed to call them As long as the batteries are younger than the expiration date, your tool will be repaired or replaced.

lithium rechargables. they will last you years